Unleash it.
My sister did a great job of giving me the whirlwind (yet comprehensive) food tour of Portland. A must-do on her list was Beast.
Beast is a prix fixe restaurant in the Alberta neighborhood. Chef/ Owner Naomi Pomeroy was one of Food and Wine’s 10 best new chef’s of 2009, and has gotten a lot of press for her beautiful little restaurant. After experiencing her place firsthand, I can see what all the buzz is about.
Decor inside is simple. The restaurant consists of one room, with a 16 top and an 8 top, both of dark, smooth wood, a metro rack, a small server station, and a small open kitchen. The rear wall is chalkboard style with quotes about food haphazardly painted on it. The rest of the walls are painted a creamy retro pink, and the tile in the kitchen is navy blue. Visually the space is very pleasing and for the most part unadorned- and with good reason- the food speaks for itself here. An open kitchen with a huge butcher block counter where the plating takes place lends itself to an intimate dining experience as you are literally within arm’s reach of the action. The community table vibe is also nice juxtaposition to the refined food and plating. We were a party of three and therefore were seated with 13 people we had never met.
What a great way to meet new people!
I loved that we were all on the same schedule, moving through the meal together as one unit. The diners and the cooks, united in a common purpose, everyone doing what they like to do. We were all experiencing the same bliss simultaneously. There were no distractions inherent to a regular style restaurant- no one coming and going, mainly…but most importantly, no decisions! Small paper menus (the menu changes weekly at Beast, which is open Wed-Sat, and Sun mornings for brunch) were placed at each place setting, which detailed the food as well as the wine pairings, should you opt to add them. The service staff was top notch and presented all of the wines and courses flawlessly.
Photos of the evening are below. I was so blissed out by the time the cheese course and then the chocolate souffle hit the table that I was unable to take photos, only to savor the last moments with the surrounding company and splendid food. As if 6 courses plus intermezzos weren’t enough, we were served chocolate covered bacon with our port as a grand finale. Wow.
The notion of completely trusting the chef to create the menu, the space, the entire experience, really-then successfully execute the menu in the manner she feels showcases her food the best- is a beautiful thing. Really great chefs put themselves in the diners shoes and think about the experience of the meal from the moment the diner sees the facade of their restaurant until they walk out the door. Every detail is deliberate- from a visual, tactile, auditory and of course taste standpoint. They all combine to form the perfect and truly unique evening. I hope to surrender to Miss Pomeroy again and often, as she is one of the truly great chefs.
Interior of Beast
Chef/Owner Naomi Pomeroy, one of Food and Wine's top 10 Chefs of 2009.
Chilled tomato and bacon soup with mint creme fraiche. Served with Domaine de la Janasse Cote du Rhone Rose 2009.
Assembling all the components...
Clockwise, from top: Foie-Gras bon-bon on shortbread with Sauternes gelee, chicken liver mousse & pickled shallot, house pickled beet and carrot, steak tartare &quail egg toast, pork shoulder rillettes with Seville marmalade, whole grain mustard and cornichon, blood sausage puff pastry with pickled cherry. Center: shaved fennel and parsley salad. Served with Staldmann Zierfandier Classic 2008.
Thundering Hooves grass fed flat iron steak and farro with spring pea and porcini mushrooms. Served with horseradish goat butter and veal demi glace. Paired with a 2006 Moulin de Tricot Haute-Medoc.
Streetview of Beast
